Model
THE
BALMACAAN
Late Autumn
Dark Navy
Shadow Check
Autumn Leaves
Ipcress Tweed
bal / muh / kaan
[outerwear] a raglan-sleeved walking coat named after the Balmacaan Forest in the Scottish Highlands. The loose fit of the coat is designed to effortlessly ‘slip-on’ over several layers and transition seamlessly across dress codes, landscapes and the changing seasons.
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DNA
Starting life as a country walking coat, the Balmacaan has
slowly evolved to meet changing needs. The rugged landscape of the Balmacaan Forest required an overcoat that could quickly adapt to the unpredictable Scottish weather. Provisions for a day out in the elements needed to be stored in the coat to free the hands from the burden of luggage. The Balmacaan is close in spirit to Shinrin-yoku or ‘forest bathing’ - the Japanese practice of spending time recalibrating with Nature. When cut in a modern cloth in universal colours, it is equally at home in the city.
In the 1960s the Balmacaan became shorter with a cleaner fit, shedding its country baggage and becoming an all-purpose layer worn over tailored suits.
The defining elements of a Balmacaan are its slip-on raglan sleeves, relaxed A-line cut, four-button fly front, slanted welt pockets, wrist tabs, centre vent, removable belt and high-
fastening ‘Bal’ collar with detachable stormguard.
When worn open, the lapels roll back and the coat floats lightly. In cold weather, the front can be buttoned up to the neck.
The raglan sleeve was the natural choice for the easy-fitting Balmacaan and defines its silhouette. It has a long history going back to the mid 1800s. As the story goes, Lord Raglan, having lost an arm in battle, commissioned his tailor to devise a sleeve that would make it easier for him to dress, both in terms of slipping on a coat with one hand but also giving an extended range of movement to his good arm. A simplified version that eliminated the shoulder seam entirely, was later developed for military use for its versatile fit over every shoulder and layer as well as the water-resistance of its one piece construction.
The evolution of the Balmacaan in the ecosystem of men's outerwear continues to this day, having crossed over from the country to the city during the 20th century. The ability to bridge the gap between casual and formal, whilst looking at home in both urban and natural landscapes is what makes the Balmacaan as relevant now as ever. The modern Balmacaan is the perfect travel coat for flâneuring around foreign cities, an ideal daily commuter and a reliable companion for exploring the natural landscape.
Details
Exterior
The exterior of the Balmacaan has been pared down over generations of wear and refinement to become almost aerodynamic in its simplicity. To keep out the rain and cold the Balmacaan has several transformative features.
1. The 'Bal' collar is cut to be convertible, shape-shifting from a shirt collar to a rolling lapel depending on how high it is buttoned. 2. The raglan sleeves make the coat effortless to slip-on over any shoulder line. 3. When worn closed, the fly-front prevents the buttons from getting snagged and also provides an extra layer of protection against wind and rain. 4. The boat-shaped 'Barchetta' welt pockets on the front of the coat harmonise with the curved raglan seams and natural shoulder line and are inspired by the ‘little boat’ outbreast pocket favoured by southern Italian tailors. They are curved to welcome a cold hand and to lay flat when not in use. The pockets are lined in a brushed cotton sateen that softens with time and wear. The internal hand warmer pockets and glove pockets are cut from a napa-soft cotton moleskin. 5. The removable belt features a small button-down keeper to avoid losing it when untied. In cold weather, the belt can be tightened to form insulating pleats around the body, as well as to reshape the silhouette. 6. In heavy rain, the detachable storm guard can pivot from its storage position under the left collar to button across the up-turned collar, sealing the neck from the elements.
Interior
While the exterior of the Balmacaan is streamlined minimalism, the interior is focused on utility. Tonal lining, keeps the interior calm and pared back. The main seams of the coat are finished like a shirt to optimise lightness and durability. A lightweight canvas floats between the cloth and the lining to make sure the coat always springs back to life. This resilient inner layer acts as a structural vertebrae, ensuring the garment always keeps its shape without locking up the cloth with adhesives.
1. The sleeves and shoulders are lined in smooth Bemberg viscose for easy slip-on. 2. The body is gilet-lined with cotton for insulation without bulk. This cotton lining allows the skin to breathe and is soft to the touch. 3. On the right side is a horizontal inbreast pocket. 4. On the left side is a vertical inbreast pocket for easy access to the essentials like a wallet or phone. 5. Beneath this is a large double-height passport pocket with flap which extends up and down. This is perfect for a passport with boarding pass and larger items you would normally need to carry separately such as a book, thermos or small umbrella. 6. Hidden in the side seam of the lining is an invisible zipper which reveals a secret poacher's pocket that runs right across the back of the coat. From its hunting origins of stashing game like rabbits and pheasants the pocket is particularly handy for larger items and documents that would usually need to be carried separately. 7. The cotton hanging loop at the back neck is useful for keeping the coat nice and tidy when a coat hanger is not available.
Cloth
The cloth of the Late Autumn bunch reflects the versatility of this timeless overcoat.
We have selected a spectrum of cloths across a range of mills from solid Loden wools to patterned Tweeds with an emphasis on softness and drape. Taking inspiration from the changing colours of Autumn, we have included muted cool, neutral and earth tones to integrate with a wide variety of wardrobes and complexions. The bunch features the wool of various breeds of sheep to offer a variety of characteristics to suit different climate zones.
Raw Materials
Cloth
Our modern lifestyles of travel and casual dressing require cloth that can look after itself. Creases must fall straight out, there should be natural give and flex for comfort and a coat should be able to be rolled into a bag and spring back to life as new, with no need for time consuming steaming, ironing or any precious treatment. Warmth and weather protection are essential and should be matched to the local climate. Rain protection is even better and not just for the obvious reasons but also for repelling spills, stains and dirt. The goal being a coat that works hard in all situations and lasts as long as its fibres do. We prefer using natural fibres due to their sympathetic qualities and to make use of nature's own highly evolved technology. We avoid cloths that are over finished or delicate as we want to preserve the natural characteristics that keep sheep warm, dry, clean and protected from injury. We encourage you to order samples before you order your coat, the haptic qualities of cloth will never translate accurately on screen.
Lining
Cotton is perhaps the most sympathetic fibre to the needs of the human body. It breathes and wicks moisture to regulate the body's temperature. It is uniquely soft to the touch, like handmade paper. For these reasons we use 100% cotton for our body lining. To reduce weight and eliminate friction we line the shoulder and sleeves in Bemberg. This helps the coat to lightly float when it is worn, almost levitating. Bemberg is the tailor's favourite lining material as it breathes better and is more durable than silk. It was originally sold as 'artificial silk' but it is actually a specific type of viscose derived from the cellulose of plant material.
Packaging
Mottainai is a Japanese term that refers to the regret of being wasteful, which inspires a tendency to re-use, recycle and never waste what nature has given us. In this spirit we have designed our packaging to be as zero-waste as possible. Our packaging is inspired by Japanese rice bags, simple paper bags that fold to form a furoshiki-like handle. The printed sleeve is designed to be concertina folded and kept with the spare buttons and cloth swatch that the overcoat arrives with.
Buttons
Our buttons are made from an innovative material that combines a Bio-resin acetate extracted from plants with a polymer to create lightweight, durable and sustainable buttons. They have a semi-translucent colour that resembles a shot of espresso, complete with crema. They are shaped and finished to be soft to the touch in the same process as handmade acetate sunglasses frames. We make our buttonholes by machine and attach out buttons by hand. This provides maximum durability and longevity whilst ensuring the buttons are secure and given the right amount of stem height for the cloth thickness. Some things are worth taking time with and are best done the traditional way.
Pocketing
Last but not least, the haptic sensation of putting your hands in your pockets is one of the most pleasant and underrated experiences of wearing a good overcoat. Their placement, size and perhaps most importantly material can make or break any garment. We use a brushed cotton sateen from an English mill. Inside the Barchetta pockets the hand warmer pockets and internal glove pockets are cut especially from cotton moleskin for optimum softness and warmth. They act as internal mittens as well as storage pockets for small items like keys, coins and phones.
